Performance Auto Parts has the Engine Rebuilding experience to help keep your vehicle running smoothly. We offer the highest quality customer service and will treat your as if it were our own. Roll off the lot with your vehicle feeling brand new. You’ll be amazed by the difference a Engine Rebuild can make.
If your head needs to be checked for cracks then we can pressure test or magnaflux it. If the head needs to be resurfaced we can do that too. If a head is bent we can straighten it and if the seats need to be refaced we are the company that can do it.
We can rebuild a complete engine for our customers which is an engine rebuilt from the intake manifold to the oil pan. Or are you interested in only a long block? A long block engine is rebuilt from cylinder heads to engine block (no tin parts included). Or maybe a short block engine which is rebuilt with everything except cylinder heads. We can supply new parts or remanufactured parts when rebuilding the engine. Either way the engines are assembled by knowledgeable employees.
Our Crankshaft Dept. fully reconditions crankshafts “in House”. Submerged arc welding repair, or to build up for Custom stroker. Magnaflux, Grinding, Micro polishing, Nitrating and straightening. We also do Motorcycle Crankshafts and Forklift Crankshafts. We surface Flat and recessed Flywheels also.
Cylinder block Boring and honing with head plates, Decking – decking w/BHJ fixture to ensure 90° and flat and parallel, and line honing. We also pressure check cylinder heads and Blocks. Sleeve installation also available. O ring Block deck surface. Installation of 4 bolt main caps, and SBC “deck plugs”.
We also offer Custom Machine work and MIG Welding. We have a Bridgeport Milling machine and South Bend Lathe. We have a precision BHJ fixture for fly cutting pistons for valve clearance. We can also machine Manifold Intake surfaces.
Stuska® 1,500 hp Engine Dyno
Mustang® Computerized Chassis Dynomometer
WHAT IS OUR PROCEDURE TO REBUILD AN ENGINE?
Our engines are completely dissassembled all galley plugs and casting plugs are removed the blocks are then thermal cleaned or chemically cleaned. We visually inspect the blocks for casting defects then magnaflux or pressure test(checked for cracks).
The cylinders are rebored and power honed oversized to factory specs, deck surfaces are checked for straightness and pitting and are milled as needed. All bolt holes are retapped and cleaned. Main bearing bores are checked for proper size and align-honed as needed.
The block is then rewashed and new cam bearings, galley plugs and casting plugs are installed.
The old pistons are removed from the connecting rods. The rods are then cleaned, magnafluxed, checked for straightness and resized to factory specs. New pistons are installed on the reconditioned rods.
The crankshafts are reground, polished, checked for straightness and proper finish before being reinstalled in the engine.
Our engines and componets are re-washed and ready to be assembled with our remanufactured cylinder heads (see head procedure)and new: pistons, piston rings, main bearings, rod bearings, camshaft bearings, timming chain and gear sets, oil pumps, camshaft and lifters, complete gasket kits
Our ASE certified engine tech will re-check all parts for cleanliness, proper sizes and clearence. All nuts and bolts will be torqued to the proper specs. The engine is then checked for compression and oil primed.
Our engine tech then will brief the owner and installer on installation and break-in procedure which are in writing and comes with our written warranty papers
OR A DYNO WILL BE PERFORMED!
Why did the engine go bad in the first place?
This is important to consider. If the engine overheated due to a partially clogged radiator and a new engine is installed without addressing this, the new engine will surely fail too. If your maintenance was spotty and you don’t change your habits, then the new engine will fail as well. There usually is a correctable reason for engine failure. Most of the engines we work on will last the life of the car without needing a rebuild. We have one customer with almost 400,000 miles on her original engine. There are of course fluky failures like an Integra that burned a hole in the head behind the back side of the valve seat at 40,000 miles and an Civic that dropped a valve for no apparent reason, but problems like these are rare. So if the cause of the engine failure in not apparent to you, be sure to ask.
How do I break in the rebuilt engine?
Vary the engine speed and load. Don’t use over 75% throttle. Don’t go over 75% of the maximum RPM. Don’t use synthetic oil. Don’t let the engine idle for extended periods. Don’t cruise on the freeway at the same speed for extended periods. It should only take about 500 miles to break an engine in. After that change the oil and do what you want. Believe it or not, how you break your engine in can make a huge difference in how long your rebuilt engine lasts and how much oil it uses. You should also be aware that the rebuilt engine will burn more oil as it is breaking in, so check the oil frequently.